Essentials for a Phnom Penh

PHNOM PENH, Cambodia — Bigger. Taller. Fancier.

Cambodia’s capital city of Phnom Penh is undergoing a staggering period of development 40 years after the communist Khmer Rouge regime took over the city and forced thousands to evacuate to rural Cambodia in its brutal campaign to create an agrarian-based society.

Today, the citizens of Phnom Penh are still recovering from the devastation of the past while a stylish regional capital comes into its own. Dilapidated structures are being bought, torn down and replaced with shiny high-rises. High-end restaurants featuring Khmer and Western-style cuisine fight for space alongside street vendors and busy cafes while rooftop bars are packed at night.

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WHAT’S NEW

The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, also known as S-21, is where the Khmer Rouge tortured and brutalized an estimated 17,000 Cambodians before they were executed. Located in the southern portion of the city in a nondescript neighborhood, Tuol Sleng was a high school before becoming a prison. With the recent 40th anniversary of the regime taking power in 1975, a new memorial dedicated to the victims was installed in March.

Cambodia’s largest shopping center, Aeon Mall, opened in 2014 in Phnom Penh to much fanfare. The behemoth shopping center features an ice rink, food court, movie theater and nearly 200 stores.

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CLASSIC ATTRACTIONS

In addition to visiting Tuol Sleng, the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek is a must-see. Located about 30 minutes outside of Phnom Penh by tuk-tuk — the ubiquitous three-wheeled taxis — the site is where Cambodians from S-21 were sent to be executed from 1975 to 1979. Pieces of skull and bone can still be found throughout the site, which contains numerous mass graves. A haunting but informative audio tour available in several languages provides historical context.

Within the city proper, the National Museum of Cambodia houses sculpture, pottery and other pieces ranging from prehistoric times to the Angkorian period (ninth to 15th centuries). After touring the museum, head to the courtyard garden for views of the museum buildings, which were inspired by Khmer temples. Just down the street is the Royal Palace, official residence of King Norodom Sihamoni. Full of Khmer architectural elements including stupas and towering spires, the palace complex includes Preah Vihear Preah Keo Morakot, or Silver Pagoda, the royal temple with Buddhas made of gold, silver and emeralds. More than 5,000 silver tiles cover the temple floor.